The historic buddist MONASTERY

A visit to the Buddhist monastery complex at Moghalmari

Driving on a straight stretch of National Highway-60 from Medinipur to Balasore, you would be forgiven for missing the small sign unbefitting one of the most significant archaeological sites discovered in Bengal. After all, the sleepy hamlet Moghalmari, is similar to others in the southern part of Paschim Medinipur district, close to the border with Odisha. But after traversing a few hundred metres off the highway, you come across an impressive hillock, which locals refer to as the “mound of Sakhisena” and the “mound of Sashisena”. My own native village is in the vicinity so I’m familiar with the area, but even a day-trip will acquaint the casual observer with the geography of the region and to that the fact that this is an anomaly since most of the region is very flat.

In 1996, a local schoolteacher, Narendranath Biswas, informed Asok Datta, a professor of archaeology at the University of Calcutta about various ancient-looking artifacts villagers were finding near this mound. A very large number of medieval coins with Buddhist inscriptions, shards of pottery, and ornate bricks were being discovered.

In 2003, the mound and two other adjacent sites were selected for excavation by Dr. Datta. This small village, Moghalmari was hypothesized to be a part of a flourishing ancient center known as Dandabhukti. Further, just as today the village is situated just off of a national highway, in antiquity, it was thought to be on a trade route connecting Tamralipta, one of the most important ports in Buddhist times, to other sites of significance to Buddhism.

Further examination of the site led Dr. Datta and his team to believe that the Subarnarekha River, which now flows approximately 4 kilometers southwest of Moghalmari was close to the mound, further strengthening the argument that the village was once acenter of Buddhist learning.

Excavation began in earnest, but proceeded slowly through five stages over nearly a decade, more often hampered by lack of sustained funding and bureaucratic bottlenecks, than by any shift in significance. Excavations leading up to 2012 revealed that the mound was the site of an extensive Buddhist monastery complex built over centuries and perhaps as early as the sixth century, the likes of which have yet to be discovered elsewhere in Bengal. Many human figures including that of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas, bowls, terracotta lamps, tablets for worship, and seals were found within the central region surrounded by massive brick walled structures ornately decorated with stucco panels and floral motifs.

A brick stupa was discovered in 2012 along with proto-Bengali scripts. Shortly before Dr. Datta’s death in 2012, he wrote in a local magazine, Ebong Shayak that “Moghalmari possibly exhibits the largest monastic site so far discovered in Bengal.”

Not much has been gleaned about the Buddhist monastery complex at Moghamlari from the standard texts of the time that historians rely on for information. The Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) may have alluded to it in 638, when he visited Tamralipta, but he did not mention any specific name. Tamralipta is extensively mentioned by Xuanzang and Faxian (Fa Hien) before him, but to date, no archaeological site corresponding to this major Buddhist centre has been discovered. As such, Moghalmari may be the best preserved site in the vicinity and could hold the key to unraveling the secrets of Buddhist society in Bengal at that time.

I visited the mound at Moghalmari in October, 2012. Up until that time, only small areas of the mound that had been excavated by Dr. Datta’s team. The area had not been cordoned off by the Archaeological Survey of India. In fact, the only sign mentioning the historic significance of the Buddhist complex at the location had been erected by a club of local citizens, who had also taken up the important task of safeguarding the excavated sites. Some relics had been shipped to Kolkata, while others had been kept in a small clubhouse converted into an archive. We were the only visitors that day.

This was in marked contrast to the situation earlier this month. The Directorate of Archaeology & Museums of West Bengal is currently undertaking a complete archaeological excavation and restoration of the Buddhist monastic complex at the mound. I visited the site last week and was greeted enthusiastically by experienced, local diggers who had previously worked with Dr. Datta, and state archaeologists, who guided me around the site and eagerly answered all my questions regarding the layout of the complex. Work is progressing rapidly and many artifacts are being uncovered every week. I also saw a flat site adjacent to the mound, which in the near future will house a small museum of antiquities.

I am very excited that we will finally learn more about this important site, and this unknown facet of our history, but I also understand there are underlying responsibilities. For many years, the Buddhist monastic complex at Moghalmari was safely buried under layers of soil because no one knew about it. With excavation will come the challenge of protecting the structures from tourists, vandals, and thieves. The structures will also be exposed to the vagaries of local weather such as high humidity and water erosion.

Elsewhere on the subcontinent, in Mohenjo-Daro, concerned authorities are contemplating reburying exposed structures under soil to protect them from further damage as exposed walls are crumbling from the foundation. Preservation is an ongoing activity, and the people I spoke to at Moghalmari this month told me that they had thought seriously about this important duty. I remain cautiously optimistic that we will be able to rise to this challenge. Moghalmari contains extensive evidence of our early cultural heritage which deserves closer inspection: the responsibility of protecting it lies not only with the authorities who plan to safeguard it, but also with us.

BUDDHIST MONASTERY at MOGHALMARI

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BUDDHIST MONASTERY AT MOGALMARI

In the year 1998 Dr. Ashoke Dutta, Head of the Department of Archeology, Calcutta
University had an excursion tour with his students at Sorosanka Lake under jurisdiction. In
course of his excursion tour he was introduced with the Ex-Head Master of Dantan High
School Mr. Naren Biswas. He primarily told him regarding “heap of soil” at Mogalmari village
and some small Hailstones with engrave in “Pali Script”. Dr. Ashoke Dutta had a visit at
Mogalmari and shown keen interest on it and searched for the owners of the land. After
long formalities his dream of excavation of the heap of soil at Mogalmari became true. First
excavation at Mogalmari started in the month of March’2003.
The 6th excavation took place with effect from 12.03.12 to 25.03.12 under the
leadership of Dr. Ashoke Dutta and his team of experienced Archeologist. This is the most
fruitful excavation so far.
The present i.e. 6th excavations of Mogalmari have brought to light the largest
buddhist monastery Complex in West Bengal. The monastery has two structural phases. The
earlier phase (6th – 7th Century AD) is characterized by the application of extensive time /
stucco and decorative bricks in the construction. The later phase (11th to 12th Century AD)
is represented by a tri-ratha structure to the west as a brick stupa inside the complex.
This as a unique artistic creation embellished with stucco work of Nalanda of Bihar and
partly with the Raktammthika Mahavihar of Bengal. The discovery will definitely enrich the
history of Bengal.
The stucco work has been made with Gypsum and lime. There are several stucco
works of Lord Buuddha in different position on the entire wall of the monastery. Forty five
(45) types of different decorative bricks have been used in constructions of the outer wall
of the monastery was 60’ X 60’. Thirty eight types of bricks have been used at Nalanda
Buddhist monastery. Some Terrakota Lamp, Votic stup and Votic tablets have been found at
the Mogalmari villages at some houses who have kept in their possession. Likewise one small
Hailstone is kept with the possession of one Pranati Jana D/O Lt. Bankim Bihari Jana with
Script in Pali Language. Latter on Dr. B.N. Mukherjee, an expert of Pali Language has
discovered the script meaning as “Propagation of Dharma does not happen without self
sacrifice”. Some bricks same as found in the monastery wall could also be found nearly still
now which enlighten to the fact that Buddhist were living at the village.
There is a saying regarding the name of Mogalmari. It is said that the Pathans went
through the village for a battle with Mughals which took place namely Tukarui village under
Dantan Police Station. Mughals died in the battle. Since then the village has been named as
Mogalmari.

STONE FIGURE of around 5th CENTURY

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Stone Figure of 5th-7th Century CE found in Moghalmari.

The first detailed excavation of the Moghalmari site started in 2003 by a group of archaeologists led by Asok Datta from Department of Archaeology, University of Calcutta.^[8] In the first phase of the excavation in 2003-04, two sites in the Mogholmari village was selected for the excavation. While the first site named MGM1, consisted of a structural mound with bricks strewn over the surface, locally known as Sakhisener dhibi or 'Sashisener dhibi.^[8] The other site named MGM2 situated over present habitation, consist of five circular brick bases of stupasand pottery strewn over the surface.^[8] The first site revealed a triratha projection in the western part of the site consisting of a wall running north-south which is considered to be a wall of a small monastic complex. The excavation also revealed square/rectangular structures (considered to be cells) apart from other antiquities.^[8] The second site revealed three circular brick structures considered to be base of stupas. The artifact remains indicated that it belongs to 6th-7th Century. Further excavation revealed silt deposition of 55 cm and the artifacts found below that layer consisted of Black and Red Wares.^[8]

In 2006-07 another extensive excavation was started on MGM1 and another site named MGM3. The excavations revealed a long wall covered with stucco decorations consisting of floral, animals and human figurines, and also evidenced two stages of construction of the structure. Another important discovery of the excavation was the discovery of a Buddha image on a slate stone.^[8]

Another round of excavations in 2012 revealed various stucco figures in the walls with votive tablets having figure of Buddha as the central element, and flanked byBodhisattas and Buddhist inscriptions.^[2] The excavation also revealed a pradikshana path in the eastern and southern part of the site. The excavation has also revealed a central temple structure with cells surrounding a square courtyard. According to Rajat Sanyal, one of the member of the excavating team, the structure was constructed during theVajrayana phase of Buddhism, where deity worship started in Buddhism, which can be inferred from the presence of figures of deities in the walls including Jambala andsaraswati.^[5] The figurines and the artifacts evidences towards influence of Gupta tradition of middle Ganga region.^[1]

MONASTERY, MUGHALMARI BOUDHABIHAR

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THE Chinese traveller Fa Hien, who visited Bengal during A.D. 411-412, has written that there were 24 monasteries in the Tamralipta region (present-day Tamluk and its adjoining areas in Medinipur district). He stayed there for a while to copy Buddhist texts. More than 200 years later, the Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang came to Bengal in A.D. 638 and noted in his travelogue that the Tamralipta region had 10 monasteries and 1,000 monks. But it was only in 2003-04, under the direction of the eminent archaeologist Asok Datta, that the Department of Archaeology, University of Calcutta, got the first piece of evidence of one such Buddhist monastery at Moghalmari village in the Danton police station area in Pashchim Medinipur in an excavation project. Asok Datta passed away on July 31 last year, soon after the latest discoveries were made.

The most recent excavations at the Moghalmari monastery site in 2012 have revealed the most outstanding features of this monastery noticed so far. The discovery of the western wall of the monastery decorated with human figures and floral motifs, votive tablets and decorative bricks, along with 14 life-size stucco figures has established that this monastery is the largest and perhaps the most prosperous Buddhist monastic complex found so far in West Bengal dating back to as early as the sixth century or even late fifth century. Votive tablets are objects of offering made of terracotta, depicting symbols and inscriptions of specific religious affiliations.

“Our latest findings have been so far the most important, and academically it adds a completely new chapter to the history of Bengal. Moghalmari holds the key to understanding the dimensions and facets of the spread of Buddhism in southwest Bengal,” said Rajat Sanyal, a teacher in the Department of Archaeology at Calcutta University, who has been involved directly with the excavation project right from the beginning.

Though archaeologists had occasionally stumbled upon scattered and stray remains of Buddhist artefacts and images in different parts of the region, this kind of consolidated and well-organised religious establishment was never unearthed before. The monastery premises measured 60 metres by 60 metres. There were also stupa bases in another part of the village, the likes of which had never been found before in the whole region. “It is evident from the excavations and the findings in different parts of the village and from the various artefacts gathered from all over the place that the entire village was the site of the monastery,” said Sanyal. Only two other Buddhist monasteries have been excavated in West Bengal—the Raktamrittika monastery at Karnasubarna in Murshidabad district and the Nandadirghi monastery at Jagjivanpur in Malda district.

The monastery at Moghalmari has two main structural phases—the first phase dating to circa sixth to eighth century, and the second to circa ninth to 11th-12th century. While the first phase is marked by the extensive use of lime/stucco and decorative bricks, the second is represented by a tri-ratha (a structure with three projections on plan, characteristic of the north Indian Nagara style of architecture) to the west of the complex, a brick stupa within the complex and a series of monastic cells that were used by the monks. According to Sanyal, there may have been a third structural phase between the eighth and the 11th century. “The nature of overlaps in structural components in the south of the mound (on which the latest excavations took place) possibly suggests a third structural phase, although at the present state of excavations, this remains conjectural,” he said.

From the votive tablets, it has been ascertained that the earliest identifiable phase of the monastery was around the sixth century A.D. At first it was thought that the most prosperous phase of the Moghalmari site coincided with the most prosperous phase of the Raktamrittika monastery, which was around the seventh century, though the structural levels of Raktamrittika date back to the second century A.D. “However, the artistic idiom of the sculptures and the dates of the inscriptions suggest that the most prosperous phase of the Moghalmari monastery was probably around the 6th century or may have begun even a little earlier, the late 5th century,” said Sanyal. The noted art historian Frederick Asher, when shown the excavated items, suggested that they might belong to the same period as the remains at Nalanda, which is sixth century A.D., or maybe, even a little earlier.

Though similar stucco materials were discovered in Buddhist monasteries in past excavation projects, including the one at Karnasubarna led by S.R. Das, it was at Moghalmari that for the first time such life-size figures and a large number of decorative bricks were unearthed. “More than 40 designs of bricks have been discovered, and all of these were used to decorate the monastery. This indicates a very high level of craftsmanship and considerable prosperity,” said Sanyal. The votive tablets and the stucco art also suggest that a large number of artists and artisans had settled in and around the place. Perhaps, along with the development of the monastery, the region also grew as an important centre for artisans.

Influence of Middle Ganga region

The artefacts that have been discovered at the Raktamrittika monastery, including stucco figures, have a more localised appearance, suggesting that they are the work of local craftsmen. In Moghalmari, however, the artefacts reflect the traditions of artisans of the Middle Ganga region. The archaeologist and art historian Anasua Das, who is attached to the Indian Museum in Kolkata and has examined the findings, toldFrontline: “The Moghalmari artefacts clearly reflect the artistic trend of the Middle Ganga region, highly influenced by the Gupta art tradition. The themes, the styles, even the facial expressions of the figures, are very reminiscent of the Gupta tradition of the Middle Ganga region.”

There is a possibility that artisans were brought from the Middle Ganga region to work on the monastery. “Such a phenomenon has not been encountered so far in any other monastery site in West Bengal, and this is what sets Moghalmari apart,” said Sanyal.

However, the votive tablets were made with a very local idiom, which was circulated only within the surrounding area and was perhaps associated with a specific Buddhist cult of Avalokiteshwara that was practised in this particular monastery. Interestingly, it was Peter Skilling, an authority on ancient South Asian Buddhist votive tablets, who first suggested that the specimens discovered at Moghalmari were unique in that they were probably made for a “specific ritual that would never be repeated”.

On the trade route to other Buddhist centres

The Moghalmari monastic complex was situated on the trade route connecting Tamralipta, then a very important trading hub and port area, to other Buddhist centres in what is now Odisha on the one hand and the Middle Gangetic valley on the other. Moreover, if the theory that present-day Danton was what was known in ancient times as Dandabhukti is true, then the region where the monastic complex is situated was part of a prosperous and important administrative centre. In fact, during the rule of Sasanka (A.D. 590-625), the region was a major provincial administrative division. Though there have been other excavations and discoveries in the region to highlight the socio-cultural situation prevalent in the 7th and 8th centuries, according to scholars, the findings in Moghalmari are the most extensive so far and throw greater light on the early medieval times there.

But the main reason for the prosperity of the monastery was perhaps the trade route on which it stood. References to this trade route connecting the Tamralipta region with other areas, both by land and by the Subarnarekha river, can be found in books written as early as the second century B.C. According to Durga Basu, who teaches Archaeology at Calcutta University, the monastery would not have flourished if it were not for the patronage of the traders. “Since it was located in the Tamralipta region, we can presume that it was traders rather than the king who were behind the growth of the monastery,” she toldFrontline.

The Subarnarekha river, which is believed to have flowed close to the monastery, subsequently changed its course. Interestingly, very near the excavation site, there is a cornfield called Jahajdubi, which literally translates as “shipwreck”. “There is no reason to call a cornfield by that name unless it used to be on the river route,” said Durga Basu. Though the Tamralipta region began to decline in the 7th century, there is evidence to suggest that the monastery continued to thrive until around the 11th to 12th century.

Until around the 8th century, the port of Tamralipta was also one of the most important Buddhist sites. The Mauryan emperor Asoka (reign 274-232 B.C.) himself had travelled to Tamralipta and erected a huge pillar there. Xuanzang claimed to have seen this pillar when he came to the region in the 7th century A.D.

Along with the Buddhist monasteries, he also saw many Hindu temples, pointing to the harmonious coexistence of the two religions at that time. However, Xuanzang, strangely, never mentioned the name of any one of the monasteries in the Tamralipta region. So, even though it has been established that the Moghalmari monastery is to date the largest and one of the most prosperous, its name remains unknown. The main seal, which would have had the name of the monastery, is yet to be found. “It is most unfortunate that Dr Datta passed away before he could find out the name of the monastery,” said Sanyal.

With Datta’s death the responsibility of the project has fallen to his student and protege Rajat Sanyal, who is expected to resume excavations soon. “Hope further excavations at the site will realise the dream of Dr Datta of finding the monastic seal and put the monastery at Moghalmari on the larger archaeological atlas of South Asia,” he said.

The historic buddist MONASTERY

BUDDHIST MONASTERY at MOGHALMARI

STONE FIGURE of around 5th CENTURY

MONASTERY, MUGHALMARI BOUDHABIHAR

SANKAR CHATTOPADHYAY

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